Last Updated on 09/14/2022 by Glynn Willard

Should you boondock or stay in campgrounds?

What’s better, boondocking or campgrounds?

These are really important questions applicable to both fulltime RV living and RV vacations. We live on our RV and boondock almost exclusively, but we still have to use campgrounds on occasion.

Let’s take a realistic look at both options whether you camp alone or with your whole family and help you decide if you should use campgrounds, boondock exclusively or use a hybrid model.

Pros And Cons Of Staying In Campgrounds Fulltime

Campgrounds have their place. Let’s look at the pro’s and con’s for campgrounds.

What Are The Pro’s Of Staying In Campgrounds?


  • Access To Electricity, Water & Dump Station

    Dump station.

    A dump site with a clean out hose is a welcoming experience.

    This is perhaps the most relevant item to discuss. Some individuals don’t want to worry about rationing water (read “longer showers”), electricity or their waste storage tanks.

    And this is understandable. Using a campground with full hook ups is a lot like living in a normal house. Those individuals who only desire such a set up will not be interested in boondocking.

    But if you’re on the fence about whether to boondock or stay in campgrounds, continue reading.

    Another benefit that fits in this section is the fact that you don’t have to search for dump stations and safe potable water.

  • You Have A Guaranteed Place To Stay
    When we move to a new boonocking location, we have a plan A, plan B and plan C. There’s never a guarantee of a site being available or even accessible with our rig.

    Yes, we’ve been in a situation once when plans A through C failed. Fortunately, someone was kind enough to share their spot after we disclosed that we had been on the road for over ten hours.

    But when you have a reservation, it’s as easy as just showing up, checking in and setting up at your site.

    This is one way to reduce anxiety levels if your an individual who might be anxious about finding safe places for your family to camp overnight.

  • It’s Easy To Meet New Friends
    Friends in campgrounds
    It’s so easy to strike up a conversation in campgrounds. You’re surrounded by like minded people who are always happy to talk about camping, RV’s, tow vehicles and cool locations.

    If you have kids, you’re almost guaranteed to find other kids around for them to play with. Maybe that’s good for you, maybe it’s not so good. Purely subjective.

  • Most Of The Spots Are Fairly Level In Campgrounds
    Private campgrounds require little to no effort to level your rig. State parks usually require some effort, but not too much.

    If you have an automated system, this may not be an issue one way or the other for you.

    We’re used to more work leveling on USFS and BLM land, so minimal work is a treat for us.

  • Trash Dumpsters Are Walking Distance From Your RV
    Trash management while living on the road is always something that requires planning. Where to safely store it and where to dispose of it legally is constantly on the forefront of our planning.

    We usually use Walmart’s and fuel stations that we patron. Otherwise, rest stops are our alternatives.

    At a campground, it’s just a short walk away. It’s a luxury taken for granted by most recreational campers.


What Are The Cons Of Staying In Campgrounds?


  • You’re WAY Too Close To Your Neighbor
    This is easy to figure out and there are a few campgrounds that are a little more spacious. But we’ve been exposed to a few that with your slides out, you can reach out the window and touch your neighbor’s rig.

    That’s way too close for comfort. You can give up any concept of privacy or respect of your property.

  • It Can Get Really Loud In Campgrounds
    We’ll never forget the time we had to divert last minute and stay at a “low class” campground. It was occupied mostly by fulltime renters, not campers. It was just for one night. How bad could it be?

    I should have known when I noticed the home built motorcycle with very short tail pipes by our neighbors trailer. We went to bed around 9PM and at 12:30AM, he fired up the bike, warmed it and revved hard before tearing out of the park.

    We all about had a heart attack! Once we finally fell asleep, around 3AM, he returned and was not quiet about his return. We gave up on sleep.

    There have been many other circumstances where people close to the trailer are partying and being loud. It’s difficult to drown them out when they’re close. A noise machine and the air conditioner is not always enough.

  • It’s Always “Party Time” in Campgrounds
    This is something that is a personal issue for me. If you enjoy being submerged in the drinking and party world, than it may be a pro for you.

    But we live in our rig, exercise daily and eat very healthy 95% of the time. Saturdays are our break day to eat whatever and have a few beers. Not everyday of the week.

    When so many people are drinking, it’s more challenging to abstain. By no means impossible though.

    Just something for you to consider if you prefer not to drink or do so in real moderation.

  • Overwhelming Amounts Of Campfire Smoke
    This corresponds with the party atmosphere and is more prevalent in state park campgrounds than private campgrounds.

    If you’re sensitive to smoke, keep this in mind when booking state park campgrounds. It can be a real downer when it’s beautiful out in the evening and you can’t even sit out and enjoy the weather because there’s too much smoke.

    We have to shut our windows and run the air conditioning regardless of the temperature, just so we can breath comfortably when in this situation.

  • It Can Be Difficult To Book Popular Areas
    I see this as a common complaint of individuals trying to go fulltime. They want to stay near all the great national parks and popular attractions.

    First, most of those campgrounds are very expensive and secondly, you sometimes have to book a year in advance.

    We don’t even bother trying to stay near popular areas near the east coast. This is a non issue out west since we don’t use campgrounds.

  • It’s Expensive!
    When we go many months at a time out west and I look at our expense reports, our line item for campgrounds is $0. Our line item for camping fees (water and dump stations) is around $80. That’s based on the few places that charge.

    But when we have to stay in the east with very little boondocking on government land available, our line item for campgrounds is close to $2000. And that’s usually in a 5-8 week period.

    And we spend very little time camping in the east!

    So you can see how fast the expenses add up! I can think of much better uses for your money.

    Pros And Cons Of Boondocking Fulltime

    Let’s take a look at some of the pro’s and con’s of boondocking fulltime in an RV, fifth wheel or travel trailer.

    Pro’s Of Boondocking Fulltime


    • You Have A Ton Of Space To Yourself
      Boondocking Utah
      This is what I like best about boondocking. For the most part, you’ll be really far away from your neighbor if you have a neighbor at all. This translates to plenty of space to move about.

      It also means it’s quiet and really dark at night (great star gazing). If there is a noisy camper in the vicinity, they’ll likely still be far enough away to not cause you a bother.

      If you found a spot with a great view, it won’t be blocked.

    • There’s Plenty Of Privacy
      You have so much space to yourself, you can sometimes shower outdoors. That’s a plus when you’re trying to conserve space in the gray tank and use less water.

      The kids can play in nature and you can almost always see them from any part of the rig.

      Speaking of nature, you’re really immersed in the best of what nature has to offer.

    • There Are No Check-In or Check-Out Times
      This is something I love! You can arrive and leave whenever it’s convenient for you. And if weather’s severe on moving day, you can wait it out and move on a different day.

      Also, if you’re unhappy with a spot, there’s no financial obligation to stay. Switch to a different spot within view or move away all together.

      Our departure time is solely dependent on the distance we’re driving on that particular moving day.

    • It’s Free!
      Need I say more? For the most part, it won’t cost you a dime. That’s not to say you might spend a few bucks on gas for the generator or an upfront cost on solar.

      We usually use five gallons of gas for seven days out boondocking. This allows us to run our microwave and air conditioner as well as charge our devices.

      Even at $5/gallon, that’s inexpensive camping.

    • There’s Usually A Trailhead Near Boondocking Locations

      Family Hike

      Trailhead eight by boondocking location in western CO.

      We almost always find a trailhead near our sites. I do early morning hikes and we usually hike as a family at random times of the day.

      We find it very appealing not having to drive to a trail to get in a quick hike. Especially since the boys can’t yet hike as far as us.

    Cons Of Boondocking Fulltime


    • You’re At The Mercy Of Your Freshwater And Waste Tank Sizes

      Potable Water

      This is a state park, so I trust the sign despite the red handle.

      Some RV’s are well equipped to boondock long periods of time because they have large fresh and waste water tanks. But most are not.

      You have no choice but to pay close attention to your water consumption and the capacity used of your black and gray tanks. Once you have this information well covered, it becomes less challenging.

      But alas, you’re still at the mercy of your fresh water tank. Once the water runs out, the party’s over. Yes, you can transport water to your rig in portable tanks and bladders. And sometimes it’s worth such effort.

    • Most Spots Are Unlevel
      You’ll have lots of opportunities to hone your leveling skills. This is a great video showing you some tips to leveling on very unlevel surfaces.

      It’s super rare when we find a perfectly level spot when boondocking. Because of the frequency we boondock and move, we’ve gotten really good at leveling quickly.

      Even if you have an automated system, you may still have to dig down or use leveling blocks.

      This is a small inconvenience if you ask me.

    • Using High Wattage Appliances For Longer Durations Requires A Generator
      If you love air conditioned air, get used to running a generator. Even the most robust solar/battery systems can’t keep up with all day air conditioning day after day.

      We’ve learned to curb our utility needs and minimize the use of the generators. Our solar panels and batteries keep our DC based systems (lights, water pump, slide and fan) running indefinitely without issue.

      We don’t have an inverter, so if it requires a plug, it requires a generator. Not a big deal as we feel like we still live a totally normal life.

    Benefits Of Using Both Campgrounds And Boondocking

    The best option is to sometimes use a campground (once or twice a month). This way, you save money, enjoy the space boondocking allots, but are still able to enjoy a longer shower several times a month.

    It’s also nice to spend time out on the land and know you have a designated place to dump your tanks and grab fresh water. We know of several boondockers who book campgrounds once a week.

    That way they never have to search for dump stations and potable water. Many campgrounds have laundry, which if used once a week checks another box.

    The reality of this lifestyle is that it’s really only possible in the west. Those in the east will have to spend a predominant amount of time in campgrounds.

    Another secret is to book a campground in the region you plan on boondocking and use your time there to scout out locations. That way, you’re dumped, filled with water, recharged, laundry’s done and you already know where you’re trying to boondock first.

    Have You Thought About Living Fulltime As A Boondocker?

    Happy and safe travels!
    We appreciate any help we can get to bring you great content. Donate or buy us a coffee on our Ko-Fi site.

    How should a boondocking RV for a family be built?

    And I don’t mean one that costs upward of 300k plus. I’m talking about something that’s within the 32 foot range for 90-120k. Can it be done?

    Only the RV manufacturers and assemblers have the answer to that question.

    I present this question because we’re a family of four who has been living fulltime and boondocking predominantly in our Outdoors RV for quite awhile now.

    During our time boondocking, we’ve accumulated a list of what should be changed, eliminated and considered when building an RV for fulltime living and boondocking. In other words, a self contained, bullet proof RV (specifically a travel trailer) build for a family.

    Maybe I’m dreaming, but remember, this is a version of a “realistic” dream boondocking RV for a fulltime family.

    Why Have I Zeroed In On This List?

    There are several variables to consider when living fulltime in RV with a family and boondocking. They are:

    • There will be more weight in the RV.

    • More people means more condensation.

    • Boondocking means more time on rough, bumpy roads.

    • Boondocking means the RV needs to be self contained for long periods of time.

    • Fulltime living in an RV means the systems need to be easily accessible for regular maintenance by the owner.

    What Should Be Eliminated From A Fulltime Boondocking RV?


    • No wood should be used in the structure or interior of the RV.
      Wood is not only heavy, but it rots and is susceptible to water damage. It’s also not as structurally sound when introduced to earthquake like movements.

      I understand that aesthetics are important to most people and the use of an aluminum décor is cold and not as appealing, but we’re discussing what will make a long lasting safe RV for fulltime living.


    • Fiberglass insulation has no place in an RV
      Fiberglass harbors mold if it gets moist, which is highly likely in an RV. It also settles and shifts when moved and bumped around, which is the norm for any travel trailer on washboard dirt roads. This ultimately leads to a very low overall R factor.


    • No Slides.
      Slides are great for improving the living space in an RV, but they’re drafty and introduce the potential for mechanical problems. We typically move every four to seven days. That’s a lot of use for our slide. I do my best with proper maintenance to make sure it stays in good working order, but eventually it will fail in some way.

      A trailer with no slide, but with a max width of 102″ can be laid out in such a way to offer plenty of living space and it’s one less mechanical system to maintain (break).


    • There Should Be No Decorative Skirting Or Flimsy Attributes.
      There are a lot of decorative features and flashing in travel trailers that are unnecessary. They also wear quickly and easily and could be eliminated without an impact to the function of the trailer.

      Again, we’re not looking for aesthetic, but rather a “bullet proof,” low maintenance trailer.


    How Should A Fulltime Boondocking RV Be Built?

    This is the most important aspect of any travel trailer. The frame, bones, points of road contact and insulation are the first things I look for when considering a travel trailer.

    It’s these factors that dictate the GVWR and CCC (cargo carrying capacity). If you plan on living fulltime in your travel trailer, these are the most important numbers for you to keep in mind.

    Below are my opinions. Some based on education and a lot based on the experience of living in an RV while boondocking most of the time.

    • All Aluminum Frame And Framing???

      Steel frames are fine for most trailers, but aluminum is best for saving weight. The only downfall is its conductivity to heat. If it’s not properly insulated, it can diminish the total R-value of a floor, wall or roof.

      The key here is the weight it saves, is structurally solid and when properly insulated will produce the best travel trailer that’s within a reasonable budget.


    • Heavy Duty Axles, Suspension And Wheels.

      I believe in over-engineering the working parts of any RV. Using heavy duty axles, suspension and wheels minimizes the overall strain on the system and increases the safety and lifespan.

      There are several brands of axles and suspension equipment to choose from (and as many opinions). My suggestion is to use equipment that’s rated for a lot more weight than the rig will ultimately be full loaded. Unless of course you’re filling it with gold bullions… then I want to know where you’re parked.


    • Super Insulated On All Sides, Top And Bottom.

      I realize that we really can’t use the phrase “super-insulated” and RV or travel trailer together. so instead, I should say “well-insulated.”

      The technology for insulating homes has come a long way, but it seems like the RV industry is far behind. Why? Well, there’s no reason for them to catch up. Most people who buy RV’s only use them a few weeks a year.

      In the defense of the industry, why use the resources and increase the cost to produce a product that no longer fits within the publics ability to purchase?

      The problem is that there is an increasing number of fulltime families. I don’t believe this number will every be extreme, but there is a new market for this group.

      Regardless, I’ve only experienced a few custom brands of travel trailer that are actually well insulated. Most of them are built in the Pacific Northwest and designed for cold mountain travel.

      But you have no intention of staying in a freezing environment, you say?! The point here is that a well insulated travel trailer or so called “4 season” will minimize your use of propane or electricity for AC and stay more comfortable in any environment.

      The cost difference will be negated by the fuel savings. This goes for any home including “sticks and bricks.”

      I would like to see more spray foam and regular foam used and absolutely no fiberglass. Anything that harbors mold or settles with movement has no place in an RV.

      [Link the insulation article and give credit] Why do I know this? I’m the son of a custom home builder who’s niche was super-insulated, highly efficient homes. One learns a lot when they grow up around and work for a person like that.


    • Four Season “Out Of The Box.”

      My point here is to sell the standard model with the same amount of the insulation as the premier model. In other words, insulation is not an upgrade.


    • Bolt On Underbelly Cover Allowing Easy Access To Systems.

      I’m not a fan of coroplast [CONFIRM] underbelly covers. I understand it saves weight, but it’s flimsy and makes it difficult to access the systems. I would like to see a more substantial system that has insulated latching compartment doors over every major system that might need accesing.


    • Every System Has Easy Access For Routine Maintenance.

      A latching based door in front of every system that either needs maintenance or could fail. This includes any electrical components.

      This would make periodic maintenance and repairs a lot easier for the individual living in their RV. Especially if they’re boondocked in the middle of nowhere. It also offers the owner an opportunity to learn more about their systems.


    • Exposed Fasteners For Easy Maintenance.

      This is not inclusive of the system above for easy maintenance and repairs. Instead, I mean any screws and bolts to hold separate pieces together or attach cabinetry.

      Why? It’s important to tighten all fasteners as part of your preventative maintenance. I make a habit of doing this on a monthly basis because of the frequency of our moves.

      It no longer takes a long time. My only concern is I know there are many fasteners that are not accessible (easily) I may be missing.


    • High GVWR And Cargo Capacity

      This goes back to the frame build and axle components (including the load rating on the tires). No matter what, a full time RV’er needs to be conscientious of the amount of weight they’re carrying, period. But the objective here to to add to the safety margin. As well as minimize wear and tear.

      Make an effort to fully understand the GVWR and CCC of your rig.


    • High Ground Clearance

      We go through some gnarly terrain to get to some of our boondocking locations. If our ORV didn’t have such a high ground clearance, we’d have missed out on many of those great locations.

      It’s nice to know we’re not going to damage our undercarriage due to really rough terrain.


    What Should Be Included In/On A Fulltime Boondocking RV?

    Now I get to discuss the parts that are added after the RV looks like an RV. Ultimately, within certain parameters, every RV’er has the option to modify these aspects of the rig.

    Again, based on experience, here are my suggestions.

    • Standard 14 Ply Tires With TPMS

      It always cracks me up when the RV companies build a special edition, off road, boondocking trailer and put super grippy tires on it. Those tires are great if they’re propelling the vehicle. A trailer tire just rolls along.

      So the three most important aspects are load rating, ability to prevent hydroplaning and lifespan. No, good quality tires are not cheap, but the lifespan and safety depends on quality.

      Of course, no tire is safe that’s not properly inflated. So, a TPMS should be standard on all trailers, not an upgrade. No matter what, always learn about the proper tire inflation for the amount of weight you’re carrying.


    • Minimum Of 100 Gallons Of Fresh Water

      This is so important that it’s mandatory in my book for a family boondocking and living in their trailer. A lot of water doesn’t not exempt you from conserving and managing appropriately.

      It’s heavy, but water is life. I want to get to a grat spot and enjoy it for several days before having to leave due to water. I understand there are a lot of ways to transport water to your tank while boondocking, but you’re still at the mercy of your gray and black tank.

      This leads me to the next suggestion.


    • Minimum Of 50 Gallons For Each Of The Waste Tanks.

      At some point, we all have to find a dump station, but let’s delay that as long as possible. We’ve found so many ways to minimize the amount of liquid that goes into these tanks, buying us more time out boondocking, but we’re still at their mercy.

      So, larger tanks are a must.


    • DC Refrigerator

      I’m shocked more RV’s don’t make these standard equipment. They’re so efficient now that the dray is minimal on the batteries. And if the batteries and solar are properly set up, there should never be an issue.

      Save the propane for cooking! It will also diminish the necessary amount of propane onboard your rig.


    • Appropriate Amount Of Solar With Lithium Cells Standard

      Oh man, could I stand on my soap box now! We get so many comments that we don’t have enough solar and run our generators too much (approximately 2 hours a day under normal conditions).

      It’s important to understand that the battery bank and solar array would have to be enormous to run the AC for long periods of time, not to mention the additional load on the batteries. First of all, that’s really expensive and second, it’s really heavy!

      Balancing your power needs between a generator, solar and batteries is important. So, a rig does not need a massive array, but it definitely needs something.

      A battery bank of 3-400 AH lithium batteries, an inverter and enough panels to keep the batteries charged with a constant draw is good as standard equipment.


    • Aluminum Rack System With Flip Up Latches For Solar Panels

      This is just a vision. I don’t even know if it exists. The point being a simple latch system the can raise and lower the panels at an angle for two reasons.

      First, to make it easier to access the roof and second to angle them toward the sun depending on your geographic location.


    • Onboard Generator

      It’s a lot easier and more secure to have a generator onboard than to have to remove portable units when in need. Also, if you live in your rig and boondock most of the time, you will need to change the oil frequently. It would therefore be nice if this step is easily accessible.


    • Onboard Fuel Tank For Generator

      It goes without say, that if your generator is onboard, your fuel tank should be onboard. This is generally the case, so I will not spend any time on this aspect.


    • One Piece Shower Unit

      We have a great boondocking rig (ORV), but it has a two piece shower/bath unit. I’m consistently cleaning grime out of the area where the two pieces meet. I’ve experienced RV’s with a single piece shower unit and always wonder why ours doesn’t have one.

      I realize, a single unit may not fit through our door, which may have been the limiting factor. I think I have a solution for our “dream boondocking rig.”


    • Outdoor Shower

      Okay, I realize most rigs have an outdoor shower, but it should be on every rig intended for boondocking. Yes, we take showers outside a lot to save on the gray tank space.

      We also collect our shower water in the rig to douse fires along with our dish water.

      It’s surprising how nice an outdoor shower can be when you’re in a secluded boondocking location!


    • Weather Tight Wire Passthrough For External Equipment Such As Star Link

      Not everyone wants to drill holes in their roof or walls to pass wires through. Especially if it’s not something that permanently stays on the outside such as StarLink.

      There is no shortage of methods to make this work with minimal impact on insulation. The key here is to make it generic and large enough for several wires without compromising insulation.


    • Two Spare Tires

      So maybe I’m asking too much, but the rig I’m imagining is dual axle, which means you could easily lose two tires on one side. And I also realize this is a space issue, but if there’s a way, you won’t regret having two.


    • Reliable And Accurate Tank Monitors

      There has to be a way to engineer accurate tank monitors that are reasonably priced for RV’s that will not be affected by debris in the black and gray tank. Perhaps I have just not been exposed to all the options available.

      Regardless, it seems to be such a common gripe that a solution is in order. When boondocking for an extended time, it would really be nice to have accurate numbers for all the tanks.


    • Built In Canister Based Water Filtration System

      This is more common in motorhomes and 5th wheels, but I rarely see it in travel trailers. There’s no reason not to have an inline canaster based system that is easily accessible from an exterior compartment.

      It could be for all water sources or just drinking water. There are several inline options that are inexpensive as well as some that require electricity (UV and reverse osmosis), but none that are out of reach as an inline option in a travel trailer.


    • Ample Exterior Storage Space

      Remember, this is supposed to be a live aboard trailer for boondocking. And with our higher than normal CCC, we’ll need to store our necessities for living as well as all our tools.

      It’s important that storage is available both inside and outside the trailer. This is of course something the consumer demands in any RV. Ususally there’s more storage available than the CCC can handle anyway.


    • Standard Tank Heaters

      Any trailer that’s insulated for a cold climate needs to make tank heaters a standard component of the rig. Ducting your heater ducts around the tanks is nice, but we don’t always heat with our propane.

      There’s minimal draw on the batteries and it’s another layer of light weight protection against freezing tanks.


    • Manual Tongue Jack, Stabilizers And Leveling System

      Now you might be scratching your head about this aspect. And I completely understand. But here’s my take on electric versus manual. Your tongue jack, leveling system and stabilizers are going to be used a lot more than average.

      Electronic equipment not only has more parts that might fail, but the electronic system that makes them operate might also fail. This is not what you need to deal with when your boondocking in a remote location.

      Also, an electronic leveling system might not be enough to make up for a severely unlevel boondocking location. Besides, once you hone your leveling skills with a shovel, Anderson levelers and blocks, [LINK TO AFFILIATE] you’ll be able to have your rig leveled in just a few minutes. It’s just part of boondocking.

      And it will never fail mechanically!


    • Permanent Hook And Tie Downs On Walls And Floors

      If there’s a hook on the wall, it will be used, period. Having a built in hook and tie-down system in the trailer would solve a lot of problems as well as eliminate the need for a lot of command hooks. [LINK TO AFFILIATE]

      There is one toyhauler on the market I’m aware of that has such a system on the floor (ATC), but I’m not sure if they have a wall hook and mount system [CONFIRM THIS].


    • A Space For Each Member Of The Family: Full Size Bunk Beds

      We’ve learned from fulltime boondocking that each one of us needs “our own space.” Since separate rooms are difficult to accomplish without slides, bunk beds solve this problem for the kids.

      And not just slender beds, but full or queen sized beds that act as a bedroom for each child. The additional space also allows for my next point.


    • Storage Cabinets Or Shelves In The Bunk Beds.

      The walls of the bunkbeds should include either shelving or cabinets for the children to store their clothing and a few toys.

      We use soft bins that reside on the corners of the beds for the boys. They work for now, but we and the boys often express a need for a better storage solution.

      I haven’t shopped for such a feature, but again, we’re designing our perfect rig.


    • A foot pedal operated faucet for the kitchen sink.

      I know this feature exists as an option in residential plumbing (although rare) and it was in many of the labs at the university I attended.

      The value of a foot pedal operated faucet comes down to water savings when washing dishes and hands. It’s an easy addition to any plumbing line, but would rely on a little engineering for pedal placement. Regardless, it would be an awesome feature!

    • A Well Insulated Rear Bay Door Even If It’s Not A Toyhauler.

      I realize this is a tall order, but hear me out.

      The two most obvious benefits are:

      1. It would make loading and unloading the RV a lot easier. This especially applies if furniture or appliances need to be switched out, repaired or upgraded.

      3. With a screen set up, it makes a wonderful elevated rear deck on the RV. What’s not to love!


    • Split AC System

      Perhaps I’ve stepped into the DeLorean and moved forward in time, but there’s a serious emergence of split AC systems in stick and brick homes. The technology has improved and they’re a lot more efficient than standard systems.

      They may not have perfected a unit yet that will easily fit an RV, but it’s in the pipeline.

      What made me consider this option?

      First, I’m well aware of HVAC specialists niching down to doing nothing but switching out conventional units in homes for more efficient split systems [CONFIRM NAME].

      Second, I actually met another ORV owner who installed a split system that ran entirely off his custom lithium cell and solar set up. Yes, it required some engineering, but it worked great!


    Wrap Up

    Several of our ideas are tall orders and require refinement, but none are outside the realm of achievable. And I believe everything can be included without breaking the bank.

    We all have different price point comfort levels, but remember, this is replacing a sticks and bricks home. So, it needs to be substantial.

    Now, are there any RV manufacturers listening???

    Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)


    • Can you boondock with a travel trailer?

      Yes, travel trailers make the best boondocking RV’s.


    • How long can you boondock in an RV?

      This is largely based on the size of the fresh, gray and black tanks. We go in with 105 gallons of water and can last 9-10 days when being conservative. Not too bad for a family of four.


    • Where can I boondock my RV?

      BLM and USFS land offers the most boondocking locations. One’s driveways is also an option for practice. You can downlead a guide to how we find boondocking locations here.


    • How to RV boondock?

      We disclose all the tools necessary to boondock in our videos Boondocking Part 1 and Boondocking part 2.


    • RV boondocking with AC?

      If you’re just out for an adventure, eliminating your AC is not a big deal, but when you live in your rig, it can sometimes be a necessity. Most solar and battery set ups cannot sustain the AC for long periods. This is why we run two generators in parallel to acquire 30 amps and run the AC as long as we like.


    • RV boondocking for beginners

      You can download our guide to boondocking here.


    • Best boondocking RV?

      Currently on the market RV’s that do well boondocking are made by Outdoors RV, ATC and Arctic Fox.

    Happy and safe travels!
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